dengue fever & other scares

LUANG PRABANG, LAOS | AN INTERNET CAFE NEAR SAYO GUESTHOUSE è

there are certain allowances one must make when traveling like a true backpacker. 

for example, possibly contracting dengue fever but later realizing it’s a horrible heat rash that has spread across your neck, back, and chest, causing incessant itching and immutable fatigue.  or, brushing off the thin layer of dead mosquitos off your blanket in the $10/night bungalow right by the nam khan river.  or, finding your water supply stopped, thus angrily resorting to 2.5 bottles of spring water for the morning shower after a day of intense swimming and sweating.  or, taking a dizzying 7-hour bus ride with a practically nonexistent air conditioning system through the windiest and most mountainous of roads–a route where just a few years ago hmong rebels actively targeted and robbed or killed several busloads of tourists making the exact same stretch you are.  or, just earlier today, finding a tiny leech attached to your foot at the high crest of the kuang si waterfalls, trying unsuccessfully to pull it off with your hands and instead spraying it with mosquito repellant, watching as crimson blood squirts across your toes, and frantically batting it away into the strong current just before the waters make their 200 foot drop below.  (this last bit happened only to paul, not me.  sadly/thankfully!)

but it all must be worth something, and worth something it is.

our time in laos has been perhaps the most memorable, second only to climbing mount kinabalu, if seconding is required.  arriving from hanoi, we spent one night in the country’s sleepy but peaceful capital, vientiane.  here we took a walking tour of the city, visiting a variety of temples and the laotian “arc de triomphe,” and enjoying delicious vietnamese-style lao sandwiches with iced coffees and fresh fruit shakes.

we then spent two nights in vang vieng, a true backpacker discovery with rows of restaurants loudly playing reruns of friends, the simpsons, and family guy.  here, the attraction is not the town itself but its environs, including beautiful limestone mountains, deep serpentine caves, traditional hmong villages, and–a personal favorite–the gently rolling nam khan river, on which it is a near rite of passage to trek along and tube down.

two highlights here: first, using both a headlight and tube to explore the “water cave,” which required grabbing onto ropes, floating across a pond, and ducking under sheer rock to traverse the pitch black pathways within.  leaving our tubes once inside, there were times when we were again waist-deep, climbing through mud, and crawling on all fours to reach giant, layered rooms with slender stalactities hanging from the ceiling.

second, of course, was the tubing experience, which is a 1.5 hour journey from a point upriver back to the town of vang vieng just chilling out in your own personal inflated rubber tire.  there are bars you can stop by on the way, and we intermissioned at “last bar” to partake in a 40 ft. high hanging swing that flew you to the middle of the river so that you could let go and crash into the water.  amazingly, a large 750 ml bottle of the local brew, beerlao, costs a mere 10,000 kip ($1), and there was nothing more perfect to couple the relaxing ride home.

after vang vieng, we journeyed the nauseating but simply gorgeous route 13 to luang prabang, where we spend our final four nights in laos.  here, it is all about soaking up the local culture.  exploring the innumerable wats, helping local monks practice english, and enjoying the surprisingly flavorful lao cuisine.  full day one was spent on a walking tour through the city, closing with a climb up mount phousi to watch the sunset and catch breathtaking vistas of the surrounding area.  full day two, feeling a bit “travelled out,” was spent at my favorite lao bakery, joma, for some quality time with my pre-matriculation requirements.  and full day three, today, was marked by a trip to the famous kuang si falls, where inopportune rains and an unfortunate encounter with a leech only slightly marred the fun of wading in the river’s natural swimming pools surrounded by the canopies of a noisy and active rainforest.

also earlier today we sampled traditional lao fare, which involves clumping sticky rice with your fingers and sampling various “dipping sauces” made of eggplant, tomatoes, chilis, and various green vegetables.  also on the table were luang prabang sausage, dried buffalo jerky, and lettuce wraps filled with sweet and sour pastes.  i also thoroughly enjoyed an iced jujube drink, which was a tasteful fusion of plum-flavored juice and sweet coconut milk.

and even earlier today at daybreak, i walked out just before 6am to watch the daily procession of the monks, clad in bright orange robes, as they make their way single file through town to receive food from the local villagers.  alms, as it is known, is an exchange where townspeople give various edibles (typically sticky rice) to monks and in so doing hope to receive merit.  the monks rely completely on the broader monastic community for their sustenance, and it is usually women who awake well before dawn to prepare the morning meals.  truly an amazing and in many ways humbling sight to see.

but tomorrow morning, it all ends.  as money goes quickly and we’re forced to eat at the side street vegeterian buffet (just 50 cents for a plate of as many veggies as you can eat!), we prepare for our departure from laos and arrival into cambodia.  coming into luang prabang marked the halfway point of our month-long tour of southeast asia.  it is sad that it is so hastily coming to its end.

the final three stops of this itinerary: siem reap, cambodia; bali, indonesia; and kuala lumpur / cameron highlands, malaysia.  and i hate to admit it, but after a week of “cute,” “charming,” “basic amenity” guesthouses, i’m really looking forward to those familiar starwood hotels.  le meridien, je t’aime!

goodbye, laos.  we loved you, leeches and all.

the break-up

HANOI, VIETNAM | HILTON HANOI OPERA, 2F è

in some ways, leaving you is a bit of a relief.

your high speed, traffic-clogged streets make every crossing a near life-or-death situation.  constant solicitation for moto and cyclo rides test my thinning patience.  twice i’ve been swindled, once by a wired ATM and again by a rigged taxi meter.  the water has made my stomach rumble, insides tumble.  and the once-nice guys who showed us hoa sua refused to back down and turned from helpful guides into unwanted pests.

you’re a bit corrupt, a bit behind, and–quite frankly–exhausting.  but, as with any relationship, we had our good times, didn’t we? 

the immense history of the hoa lo prison and the ho chi minh memorial sites, including the embalmed ex-leader himself, entombed in a modest grey structure open only in the mornings to the public.  delicious noodle soups like bun bo and pho for as little as $1.25 a pop.  vibrant colors of curvy and narrow streets in the old quarter, of dancing water puppets, of tired, sometimes dilapidated french-inspired architecture.  a swim and kayak surrounded by 3,000 limestone formations jutting out of emerald green waters in halong bay.  and the views of hoan kiem lake, from all cardinal points, from nearly all possible times, and the brief visits to art shops, bohemian galleries, continental cafes, and ice cream parlors.

there was good in there, there was.

but in a few hours, off to laos, and so ends our time together, hanoi.  i hope we’ll still stay friends, and i’m sorry our romance didn’t quite work out.

lets be in touch.

the new 9 to 5

KOTA KINABALU, MALAYSIAN BORNEO | LE MERIDIEN KOTA KINABALU, 7F è

yesterday was quite possibly the perfect day: relaxing, inexpensive, and fantastic.

we awake at 8am after a good night’s rest from the previous two days’ climb up mount kinabalu, the tallest in southeast asia at a staggering 13,435 feet above sea level.  our entire bodies–surprisingly both lower and upper–are sore from the 10+ mile combined ascent-descent, ankle and knee joints throbbing in pain at every move.

at 9am we enjoy a complimentary buffet breakfast at the hotel’s circle restaurant.  roti canai, laksa, and pan-fried noodles all find their place among the more familiar scrambled eggs, hash browns, and baked beans.  i enjoy several cups of thick mango juice, and chow heartily down.

as it nears 945am, we taxi to jesselton pier to catch a ferry to the islands of tunku abdul rahman park, just off the coast of KK.  we decide on one island, sapi, for its reputation as a relatively uncrowded, great snorkeling site.  we had the option of exploring up to three islands, but the one island price was just right: 17 RM roundtrip (less than $5).

on our ferry to sapi, we meet and mingle with two of the very few americans we’ve seen since arriving borneo, chatting up travel tips, foreign policy, and graduate schools.  (one was a private equity guy starting at georgetown for his mba, the other getting her masters at the LSE.)  now a foursome, we grab a bench, bust out books and sunblock, and begin our lazy day at a spectacularly beautiful beach.

there’s no rush.  it’s only 10am and our return ferry picks us up at 5pm.  so for the entire day we swim, snorkel, sunsoak, read, write, talk, and eat.  i finish several chapters in harry potter year 4 while becoming several shades darker.  the air is thick and hot, the water cool and refreshing.  i even fall asleep right where the ocean meets the sand, the waves gently rolling under my body like a natural massage.  heaven.

afterwards, we ferry back to KK, wash up, and enjoy some evening hors d’ouevres during a gorgeous sunset overlooking the south china sea. 

we then catch the 7pm viewing of transformers at the new, stadium seating cathay cinemas for a mere 6 RM each ($1.73).  popcorn and drink cost only 5.80 RM.  the movie’s very entertaining, albeit a little long.  post-film, we hit the night market for some tasty malaysian eats — chicken satays, skewered shrimp, fried roti.  everything is cheap and delicious; a single satay costs only 1 RM ($0.29)!

day six concludes in a glorious three-room suite, compliments of spg platinum, and a host of new memories.

sadly, in a few hours, our time in borneo comes to a close, and we spend a night in kuala lumpur before jetting off to hanoi, vietnam early tomorrow morning.  but before i sign off, i wanted to share some of the breathtaking vistas from atop mount kinabalu.  more detailed post about the climb forthcoming, including tips should you ever want to tackle the mountain yourself (as you should).

hope everyone’s well!

the first twenty-four hours

SINGAPORE CITY, SINGAPORE | LE MERIDIEN SINGAPORE, 9F è

it’s late here, almost 4 ante, but nevertheless i want to report on the goings on of our first twenty-four hours here in enamoring southeast asia.  it’s been one heckofaday, and a fantastic kickoff to the many great sights and eats yet to come.

we arrive singapore changi airport just past midnight, clear customs in a breeze, and meet our host david for the evening.  after dropping off our things at his stately home just north of the city, we drive to a 24-hour “hawker center,” which is essentially a bustling, outdoor food court with cheap but satisfying eats.  david orders us a malay egg and fried turnip pancake, chicken and beef satay, and–the highlight of the night–banana leaf roasted stingray (pictured below).  paul and i describe our first taste as a blend between fish and chicken. 

satiated, we head home and i catch up briefly with david, discussing enneagrams, myers-briggs, and patterns of successful leadership.  slumber hits at about 4 ante.

this morning, we have a lazy rising, taking care of a few housekeeping matters with hotels and tours we’ve booked, and finally make our way out at about noon to a local restaurant that specializes in the popular dish, “chicken rice.”  it is essentially rice boiled in chicken broth, with roasted or steamed chicken served on top.  very simple, rather cheap (~$3.50 USD), and adequately filling.

we then make our way to kampong gelam (the malay quarter) and arab street to meander through narrow streets, lively mosques, and countless textile vendors, meeting david’s gal pal liz along the way.  the architecture is truly unique and delightfully colorful, a mix of indigenous influences and modern touches amidst largely tired, dilapidated buildings.  we stop by a small bakery serving mint cheese brownies, and i’m especially drawn to a few wall drawings that remind me of my good friend joey. 

afterwards, we drive to serangoon road to see little india, a concentrated development of street vendors, food stalls, and local residences.  we spend part of our trek at mustafa, a colossus 24/7 indoor shopping mall teeming with goods and consumables imported from india, wrestling with the mostly south asian crowds and trying on various velvet outfits for jest.  finally, we make our way to the sri veerama kaliamman temple and admire the building’s intricate ceramic detailing.

once we conquer kampong gelam and the arab and indian quarters, we drive over to the historic district to visit the highly recommended asian civilizations museum, which represents all southeast asian cultures.  on our way, we stop by the singapore river to admire the skyline, briefly entertaining ourselves as paul and i take turns holding a giant yellow python around our necks.  (“i’m britney spears!” paul proclaimed loudly.)  the ACM is serpentine, educational, and–most importantly–air conditioned, and we emerge with new memories of cultural costuming and historical role play.  who would have thought asian civilizations could be so fun?

as twilight approaches, paul and i try a classic dessert of ice cream sandwiched between a slice of colored marble bread.  it’s good, and with sticky fingers, we cross the cavenagh bridge to visit the breathtaking fullerton hotel, housed in an old district post office.  there, we poke at kois with our fingers as they snip and search for food.  we continue our walk along the river, stopping at an english pub for a rude pint, and navigate the tourist- and open-air-cafe-heavy boat and clark quays (pronounced “keys,” not “kways”) in search of the next river taxi stop.  the skies darken and we finally take a return riverboat journey to the esplanade, catching a perfect shot of singapore at sunset, and later barefoot-skipping across the wide open pedang and back to the parliament house’s car park.

dinner occurs at the plaza singapura at yet another food court, a surrender of sorts as david could not locate the great place he once knew that served an amazing laksa.  afterwards, we drive back to david’s place, check in and chill out at the hotel, and head out again (sans paul) in search of an alternative bar in the seedy cusp of chinatown.  our efforts fail, and we instead hang out at the hotel scarlet’s lounge bar for expensive cocktails and fatigue-interrupted conversations.  the night concludes with a rollicking zoo-tram-like tour of gelang, the city’s frantic red light district, and a thankfully brief brush with two law enforcement officials.  (david’s first time!)

all in all, a very full and exciting day to start off a month of travels.  lets hope the tenor continues, and pray that nothing goes horribly wrong along the way!

tomorrow: a more relaxed take on singapore, including more eats, light shopping, and the hugely anticipated night safari.  and on wednesday, johor bahru / kota kinabalu in malaysia!  our very first intra-asia flight.

wishing everyone well.

cabin class conflict

HONG KONG SAR, CHINA | HKG INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT è

fourteen hours in the air later and we’re here in hong kong, awaiting our connection to singapore.  thankfully, the SFO-HKG leg was relatively empty, and i spent a good three hours or so in the economy class version of a first class “lie flat” seat–that is, sprawled across five empty seats with the armrests drawn up.  it was great, and thanks to my premier status on united, we were seated in economy plus with 3-5 more inches of legroom.

but i have a question for you.

suppose you sit in economy plus, which you’ve “earned” either by turning elite with united’s mileage plus program or by paying for it (the additional cost is in the range of 10-50% of the base economy fare; for this flight i heard a quote of at least $100).  now, the flight takes off and you’re in the air for about an hour, and you see a gentleman creep from economy class behind you into an economy plus seat ahead of you.  what do you do?

(1) leave it be, it’s really not a big deal.
(2) leave it be but think it unfair and be totally super passive aggressive about it.
(3) confront him directly and be nice about it.
(4) confront him directly and be mean about it.
(5) report his ass and snicker as he gets escorted back to economy class.

i’m curious what you choose, and i’ll tell you what i did in next post.  ok, boarding for singapore!

overnight,

BROOKLYN, NY | THE BK HOUSE è

my life changed dramatically.  among the more surreal, i am no longer employed.  in fact, officially, i am on an “educational leave of absence.”

but aside from my workforce participation ending, i said farewell to dear and close friends, had my final deborah burger, and even shaved off all of my hair.  consider the latter a very felicity-esque, coming-of-age, starting a fresh new life reaction to change.

in fourteen minutes, a chinese man picks us up from sunset park and transports us across two bridges to newark international airport.  i’ll arrive oakland just before midnight, have one day to un- and re-pack, then jet set once again on united 867 to hong kong, continuing on singapore 891 to singapore.  (david, i hope you have our flight details.)

so begins two years of “pure joy,” “the best time of your life,” “nothing but fun.”  (those are actual quotes.)  i’m ready for them, and i promise to live them up to the fullest.

yet another exciting chapter begins, today.