August 31, 2007

• paradise found

   

  BALI, INDONESIA | THE WESTIN RESORT NUSA DUA, BUSINESS CENTRE è

   

  bali, bali, bali.  how quickly you’ve spoiled me, and become one of my most favorite places.

  but first, a report on our flights here.  last post i mentioned our tight connection in kuala lumpur.  we had just short of two hours to disembark our flight from siem reap, collect luggage, clear customs, and check-in once again, although in truth that two hours was more like an hour since air asia conveniently (and profitably) closes its check-in counters 45 minutes before the scheduled departure time.

  all was going smoothly at first at siem reap international airport.  we checked in, our luggage just under the allowable 15 kg (it’s 20 RM–~$5–for every kilo over), and the agent informed us our REP-KUL flight was on time.  but then we waited at the gate, with no sign of an arriving plane.  scheduled to depart at 1140, our watch ticks to 1110, 1120, 1130.  finally, we’re informed our flight to kuala lumpur is a heart-sinking 30 minutes late.  suddenly our 1 hour cushion turned into just 30 minutes.

  as indicated, we finally board our flight about 30 minutes late, but the crew makes an effort to get us off the ground ASAP.  this meant, in quite un-american fashion, riding the tarmac long before everyone was firmly in their seats, and taking off shortly thereafter.  thanks to their haste, we actually made it to KUL just 10 minutes late, but still we had to get our bags, clear customs, and run to the departures terminal for our flight to denpasar.

  luggage came (thank god), customs was a breeze (ditto), and we rushed over to the air asia ticket counters for our “connection” to DPS.  no one was in line because most people had already checked in, but we made it and even had 30 minutes to spare for a quick and indulgent reward: mcdonald’s for lunch.  the two americans also attempting the same connection and i cheered, and we even got the all-coveted exit row seats in flight.  truly, an amazing and undoubtedly lucky accomplishment.

  once we arrived bali, i celebrated our good fortune with several rounds of drinks, later becoming so inebriated that i–  well, lets just say it wasn’t pretty.

  but back to bali.

  paul and i have spent the past week exploring this little nook of indonesia.  for the most part it’s been about little, largely culinary explorations, coupled with handsome amounts of time with the beach, pool, and sun.  sadly, we had to skip out on exploring the active volcanoes, and–thanks to our days in glorious angkor–many of the temples we passed by were just sort of “blah.”  but we did have our share of adventures, including (*indicates photo below):

  • eating babi guling (roast suckling pig) at ubud’s ibu oka.  a totally delectable serving of all things pork,  including the crunchy pig skin, atop herb-spiced rice–all for under $3.*
  • searching far and wide for DVDs of the latest season of 24, the one we haven’t yet seen, and finding it at last in kuta for an unbelievable 10,000 rupiah per disc (~$7 total for all 24 episodes, compared to $45 on itunes!).
  • downing fried cobra (yes, the snake) at a cafe outside kuta.  ostensibly, snake meat promotes vigor and cures all sorts of bodily ills.*
  • renting a motorbike and speeding through the badung peninsula to catch a beautiful sunset at uluwatu.*
  • buying a $14 cup of civet coffee, also known as kopi luwak.  there is only one place in bali that sells this ridiculously expensive drink, the bali orchid gardens.  admission is a steep 50,000 rupiah (~$5), and given that it’s technically winter (the dry season) here in the southern hemisphere, very few flowers were in bloom.  nevertheless, paul was determined to try this unique coffee, the beans of which are eaten by and passed through the digestive tract of the asian palm civet (which looks a bit like a weasel).  no joke, these little critters eat the coffee berries, partially digest them, poop them out, and then people clean them up and make coffee out of them.  still, paul says it’s some of the best coffee he’s ever had ($4 a cup at the garden’s cafe), calling it “thick, not bitter, with a hint of chocolate,” and even purchasing a paltry 50 grams of the ground wonder for a hefty $30.  (it is the most expensive coffee in the world, as much as $600 per pound.)*
  • watching the entertaining barong dance depicting–as at the luang prabang royal ballet–a scene from the ramayana, as well as the thoroughly entrancing kecak and fire dance.*
  • trying a japanese-chain fast food eatery where steak and pepper rice are served raw on a cast iron hot plate to cook right before your eyes.*
  • eating dutch-inspired balinese rijsttafel at bumbu bali in tanjong benoa, a “rice table” with all sorts of nibbly sides including roast chicken in banana leaf, lamb stew in coconut milk, and pork in sweet soya sauce.*
  • getting upgraded both times to incredible executive suites upon check-in at the laguna resort & spa (part of starwood’s luxury collection) as well as here at the westin.*

  other than that, as mentioned, i’ve had lots of time to read, soak up some much-needed rays, and just relax–which is all i asked of our last week in southeast asia.

  now my free internet time is wrapping up.  tomorrow we make our way to kuala lumpur for a final few days in a big city.  and on september fourth, our daylong flight back to san francisco.  school starts soon.  how crazy is that.

  goodbye, bali.  of all the places i’ve visited, you’re the one i want to come most back to.

  
  
  
  
  
  
   

   

  • 9:07 am
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